Early winter deals - even some freebies - in Colorado's capital of chic

A recent tongue-in-cheek survey in Aspen Magazine asked readers to complete this sentence: "I view prices in Aspen as: a) High b) Absurd c) My husband's problem." All kidding (and sexism) aside, Colorado's most chic ski resort has earned its reputation for also being the most pricey. Aspen's ski lift ticket (about $60 at the window) is among the highest priced in the country. And restaurants? You can easily drop three figures for dinner. But if you look hard and time your winter visit right, serious bargains in lift tickets, lodging, and meals can be found. And if your budget's really tight, check out the mountains of inexpensive (even free) winter fun.

Area code is 970 unless noted.

Dreamy hotel rates

Hotel discounts are substantial in the weeks leading up to (but not including) Christmas week. "Virtual Hostel" on the Aspen website (www.skiaspen.com) lists a blizzard of last-minute bargain rooms (we found condos at $45 per person per night). Aspen Central Reservations (888/262-7736) works with hotels and the ski company to provide package rates from about $200 per person for a three-night stay.

At the high end, the lovingly restored 1889 Hotel Jerome has a package that includes two lift tickets with your tastefully decorated room (from $230 early season; 920-1000, 800/331-7213, or www.hoteljerome.com).

And at the Little Nell, exactly 17 steps from the gondola and Aspen's only five-diamond, five-star resort, you can save $185 per night on a town-view room by going early or late in the season (from $340 Nov. 19-Dec. 21 and April 3-23; 888/843-6355).

Real bargain hunters can check out the handy but spartan digs at the Limelite Lodge (from $70 Nov. 25-Dec. 17 and April 1-14; 800/433-0832) or Boomerang Lodge (from $139 Nov. 25-Dec. 11 and April 1-23; 800/9928852 or www.boomeranglodge.com).

Ski tips

Skiing starts in Aspen on November 20 and so do the best deals. Multiday discount passes cost about 10 percent less per day than regular one-day lift passes; buy a multiday pass under a new 14-day-advance program and save up to 12 percent. If purchased by December 1, a six-day lift ticket can cost as little as $39 a day.

Best learn-to-ski bargain: Beginner Magic package with lift ticket, lessons, and equipment rental at $99 (one day) or $219 (three days). At the on-mountain demo centers, rent the latest in cool ski tech - $12 an hour. And ages 6 and under and 70 and over can ski or snowboard free.

Sweet meal deals

Make your sitzmark at the restaurant early for lunch or dinner and you can find the best prices. At Little Nell the Restaurant (888/843-6355), a truly elegant three-course prix-fixe lunch goes for $19.

For dinner, some restaurants have begun to offer bar menus with lower prices. Check out Mirabella (920-2555) and the R Bistro (925-2402).

Cheap thrills from sleds to snowshoes

Gross-country skiing. The city of Aspen's 65-kilometer system of groomed cross-country ski trails is one of the largest in the nation - and it's free. The best deal: Head for the Snowmass Cross-Country Center (923-3148) and rent skis ($18) or try skate skiing lessons or even an Olympic-style biathlon (your gun shoots only pellets and you aim at targets as you ski a course). There's also a free sledding hill here (rental $5 a day for a plastic sled, $10 for toboggan).

Guided tours/star parties. In town, the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (100 Puppy Smith St.; 925-5756) has a 25-acre nature preserve with self-guided trails and a wide selection of low-cost fun, including Naturalist Nights ($5, $3 ages 8-19 and 65 and over) on Thursdays. On the naturalist-led Aspen Mountain snowshoe tour ($49, $29), you can find the real snow bunnies (along with weasels and foxes); the two-hour tour includes snowshoe rental and a round-trip gondola ride up Aspen Mountain.

Snowshoeing. It is becoming very big here. All four Aspen ski mountains (Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk, Snowmass) are open to snowshoers. The best deal: If you snowshoe up, you can ride the lift down for free.

Five of Aspen's greatest freebies

Ambassador tours. Ski free with a knowledgeable volunteer guide at 10 or 1 on any mountain - you'll learn where the powder stashes are; (800) 525-6200.

Aspen Art Museum's Thursday night receptions. Schmooze with art lovers, hope for a peek at celebrities; 925-8050.

Free coffee, cider, cookies. At the ski company's on-mountain guest service centers and base areas (and if you need to borrow ski goggles, just ask).

Owl Creek Trail. Nine miles of groomed, marked cross-country skier's heaven; 923-3148.

Shuttle bus rides. Fast, easy transportation between mountains and around town - no need for a rental car; 925-8484.

Aspen travel planner

Pitkin County Airport is served by two carriers with direct flights from Denver or Phoenix. You can also fly to Eagle County Airport (70 miles away) nonstop from San Francisco. For airport or in-town shuttle buses, call the Roaring Fork Transit Agency; (970) 925-8484. For a winter packet, call the Aspen Chamber Resort Association; 925-1940. For ski and snowboard information, call the Aspen Skiing Company; (800) 525-6200. Purchase lift tickets on-line at www.skiaspen.com or by calling (877) 282-7736.

COPYRIGHT 1999 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group